Academic Dress
The form of academic robes worn at Oxford can be traced back to the coats and ecclesiastical robes of medieval Europe, when dress marked the rank and profession of the wearer. In fact, the academic dress worn today is very much the same as that worn in medieval times. The older forms incorporate colours that were readily available in the past as well as those harder to acquire, like scarlet and blue, which were consequently significant markers of status. Thus, strong primary colours are common alongside black, white and purple. Academic dress is a physical representation of the University’s structure and a reward, and its colour and flamboyance are markers of the significance of the occasions on which it is worn.
When to wear academic dress
University members wear academic dress at University ceremonies, examinations and some official meetings. Each degree has a black gown and hood proper to it. Doctors (those with Oxford DPhils or the higher doctorates of DD, DCL, DM, DLitt, DSc and DMus) also have a scarlet robe worn without a hood at the highest ceremonial occasions; the doctoral black gowns are therefore sometimes called ‘undress’ gowns. There are thus several gradations of academic dress depending on the occasion (the table at the end indicates when each gradation is worn):
- black gown only
- black gown and hood over everyday (smart) dress
- black gown, cap and hood over subfusc (see below) – i.e. “full academic dress” for bachelors and masters
- scarlet robe and cap worn over subfusc – i.e. “full academic dress” for doctors.
- for Doctors on a small number of occasions (like the admission of the Vice Chancellor or Proctors and Assessor), Convocation habit – a scarlet sleeveless gown called a chemir worn over the black undress gown and hood, subfusc and white bands with cap.
Use this table to see what to wear to Oxford ceremonial events.
An invitation that uses any of the following wording indicates the need to wear academic dress:
- Gowns will be worn – black gown only
- Doctors may wear their scarlet robes – Full academic dress
